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The King of riesling - Weingut Keller

BEIJING - Opera Bombana

One the 25 October 2018, Muyi Fine Wines organised a dinner based on the wines of Klaus-Peter and Julia Keller. At Umberto Bombana’s Beijing restaurant, 10 of us were lucky enough to taste through 7 Keller wines as well as a handful of Burgundies thrown in for good measure!

To kick things off, we started with a pair of Abts E vintages: 2016 and 2012. The latter is one of the riper and softer vintages made by the estate during the last years, and came in sharp contrast to the incredibly sharp, acidity-driven 2016. The high limestone element in the soil here really comes across incredibly clearly with such vintages that have a harvest that happens in late November.

The next flight moved up a gear, as we tasted 2009 and 2016 Morstein next to 2005 Ramonet Bienvenue Batard Montrachet. Morstein bears a certain similarity with the richer Montrachet Grand Crus, so this comparison seemed pertinent. Whilst the Ramonet was a beautiful, much less advanced bottle than previous ones, the two Morsteins really hit the ground running. The 2009 is drinking absolutely beautiful now, even though it’s still in its adolescence, whilst the 2016 should be left alone for at least 3-5 years to really show its enormous potential. That being said, both of them combined searing aromatics with both richness and a fine line of minerality and plenty of crunchy fruit that balance it all. Stunning wines, and the favourites of many of us.

Doing a Keller dinner without tasting the estate’s arguably greatest and most hyped wine would be torturing ones guests more than anything else. The next flight was memorable as it contrasted the 2007 and 2016 GMAX. 2007 is the vintage, which which KP and Julia have officially taken over the family estate and it is an absolute pleasure to drink at the moment. These are white wines that (just like the rest of the wines in Keller’s portfolio) that are clearly at the very top of the qualitative ladder anywhere world-wide. Put them next to any Montrachet or Corton Charlemagne and they will not look old! Stunning wines!

Finally, a couple of reds were served to contrast a Burgundian classic: Mugneret Gibourg Nuits st Georges Vignes Rondes 2015 with Keller’s Frauenberg 2015. Keller’s reds are some of the most tensile and pure Pinots from anywhere and his 2015s are especially successful!

This was a spectacular evening, where everyone had a great time of wine and food. Whilst we all know just how good these wines are, it is always good to be reminded of their greatness in a context such as this!

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